Trend Observation
The AW26 Shanghai Fashion Week has concluded, and the fabric choices of native independent designers have become an industry focal point. Compared to previous seasons, the most notable change this season is the acceleration of "de-importation." Based on visits to multiple showrooms, over 60% of designers' main collections now feature domestic fabrics exceeding 50%, a nearly 20% increase year-on-year. This shift is not merely cost-driven but stems from the leap in quality and innovation within the local supply chain.
Specifically, three types of fabrics are most favored. First, bio-based materials: mycelium leather, pineapple leaf fiber, and alginate fiber are widely used in outerwear and accessories, valued for their biodegradability and unique textures. Second, modernized heritage crafts: Suzhou embroidery, gambiered Canton silk, and Dong minority bright cloth are redesigned into lighter, more daily forms, appearing in knitwear and shirts. Third, smart textiles: thermochromic, conductive yarns, and microencapsulated fragrance fabrics are moving from experimental to small-batch commercial use, particularly sought after by avant-garde designers.
Notably, designers no longer treat "sustainability" as a marketing label but internalize it as a design language. For instance, one brand blends recycled polyester from plastic bottles with silk, retaining luster while improving abrasion resistance; another uses plant-based dyes instead of chemical ones, achieving color fastness above grade 4 through technical improvements. These practices indicate that fabric preferences are shifting from "visual priority" to "texture and ethics combined."
Industry Impact
The fabric shift of native designers is reshaping the textile supply chain. First, upstream fabric suppliers face both opportunities and challenges. In the past, designers mostly sourced directly from Italian or Japanese mills; now, more are co-developing with domestic factories. This requires factories to transition from "sample processing" to "collaborative innovation," possessing small-batch, quick-response, and customization capabilities. For example, "fabric libraries" specializing in serving independent designers have emerged in Shaoxing and Shengze, offering digital printing and special finishing with minimum orders of 50 meters.
Second, the export landscape is changing. Previously, Chinese fabric exports were dominated by bulk greige goods; now, high-value, small-batch orders are increasing, prompting foreign trade enterprises to adjust strategies. Some trading companies are becoming "fabric brokers," integrating domestic innovation resources and exporting to overseas designers. In AW26, Southeast Asian boutiques have already sourced garments made from Chinese native fabrics through Shanghai showrooms, creating a dual output of "design + fabric."
Third, the sustainable certification system needs improvement. Designers' enthusiasm for bio-based and recycled materials has exposed the lack of unified domestic certification standards. Currently, GOTS and GRS remain primary references, but local certifications like "China Green Fiber" have insufficient recognition. This puts designers under dual pressure of "green premium" and "trust cost" when sourcing.
Actionable Advice
For Buyers - Establish a "local innovation fabric library," regularly attend fabric trade shows alongside Shanghai Fashion Week, such as Intertextile AW, focusing on bio-based and recycled fiber zones. - Co-develop exclusive fabrics with designers, using 100-300 meter trial orders to reduce risk while securing priority supply rights. - Require third-party sustainable certifications from suppliers and gradually incorporate "carbon footprint" into procurement scoring.
For Designers - Front-load fabric narratives: communicate with fabric suppliers during collection planning to ensure material-theme alignment and avoid later compromises. - Explore "heritage + technology" hybrids, e.g., combining gambiered Canton silk with conductive yarns to retain cultural DNA while adding functional value. - Build fabric archives, recording materials, suppliers, and certifications each season for traceability and brand communication.
For Factories - Transform into "service-oriented manufacturing": offer one-stop solutions from fabric recommendation and sampling to finishing, with minimum order quantities down to 50 meters. - Invest in digital printing and waterless dyeing equipment to meet designers' dual demands for personalization and sustainability. - Co-build "slow fashion" production lines with designers, accepting 30-45 day lead times in exchange for higher added value.
For Foreign Trade - Shift from "selling fabric" to "selling solutions": package fabrics, design support, and sustainable certifications for overseas independent designers. - Use cross-border e-commerce platforms to showcase small-batch innovative fabrics, offering rapid sample delivery. - Focus on RCEP and Belt and Road markets, connecting Chinese native innovative fabrics with Southeast Asian and Middle Eastern designer needs.
AW26 Shanghai Fashion Week is not just a visual feast but an industry signal. Native designers' fabric preferences are moving from marginal experimentation to mainstream practice, driving China's textile industry from "scale manufacturing" to "value creation." For all links in the supply chain, only by actively embracing change can they seize opportunities in the new fashion revolution.