In the AW26 runway fabric lists, mulberry silk blends are moving from a decorative accent to a structural protagonist. In previous seasons, pure silk was often used as a highlight in premium womenswear due to price volatility and care requirements. This season, however, brands are more willing to blend silk with synthetic fibers, wool, and cupro, using hybrid logic to resolve the tension between luster, drape, and daily wearability. Weaving mills in Shengze and the raw material end in Hangzhou's mulberry plantations are forming a new rhythm of collaboration: Hangzhou provides raw silk and traceability information, while Shengze handles twisting, interweaving, and finishing before delivering to brands and garment factories.
Trend Observation
The first clear shift is the rising proportion of "silk + recycled polyester." Traditional silk-polyester blends were mostly used for linings or low-end shirts, but the AW26 version emphasizes "silk-like appearance, performance-like function." By interweaving high-twist silk with fine-denier recycled polyester, the fabric presents a soft matte luster, improved wrinkle resistance, and retains its basic shape after machine washing. This type of fabric appears extensively in dresses, wide-leg trousers, and lightweight trench coats, with price points concentrated between 1,500 and 3,500 RMB.
The second shift is the return of cupro. When cupro is blended with mulberry silk, the hand feel approaches heavy silk, but the drape is crisper, making it suitable for suits, shirts, and skirts. Some Hangzhou mulberry plantations are collaborating with cupro suppliers to launch a "mulberry traceability + cupro blend" narrative, emphasizing a low-carbon path from mulberry leaf to yarn. This fabric is highly accepted in concept stores and designer brands because it offers the luxury of silk while avoiding the fragility of pure silk.
The third shift is the penetration of "silk + wool" in autumn/winter outerwear. When mulberry silk is blended with merino wool, it retains the warmth and structure of wool while neutralizing itchiness with silk, enhancing skin-friendly comfort. Some Shengze factories use a "silk-wool interweaving + light milling" process, allowing the fabric to maintain a lightweight feel while possessing a wool-like texture. This fabric mainly targets high-end coats, short jackets, and scarves, with unit prices generally above 3,000 RMB.
Industry Impact
From an industrial chain perspective, the collaboration between Shengze and Hangzhou is changing the traditional division of labor. In the past, Hangzhou's mulberry plantations were more of a raw material base, while Shengze was a weaving hub, and information flow between the two was not tight. In AW26, more and more brands are demanding "from mulberry plantation to fabric" traceability, forcing companies in both locations to establish data interfaces. Hangzhou provides raw silk batches, plantation locations, and reeling dates; Shengze provides blend ratios, dyeing and finishing processes, and test reports. This short-chain collaboration allows brands to complete sampling to small-batch delivery within 4 to 6 weeks.
For premium womenswear, the greatest value of mulberry silk blends is "cost reduction without downgrading." Pure silk fabric is costly and has high waste, while after blending, the silk proportion can be controlled at 30% to 50%, retaining the core texture while making the price more controllable. Especially in export orders, European buyers' demand for "machine-washable silk blends" has risen significantly, as they want fabrics that can adapt to fast-paced e-commerce returns and home care scenarios.
Another impact is the competition in finishing technology. The difficulty of mulberry silk blends lies in the differences in shrinkage, dyeability, and abrasion resistance between the two fibers. Some Shengze factories are introducing low-temperature dyeing and bio-polishing to reduce silk damage while improving the color fastness of the synthetic portion. Whoever can achieve "silk feel retained, performance not weakened" in finishing will secure more premium orders for AW26.
Practical Recommendations
For Buyers
- Prioritize blends with 30% to 50% silk content to balance cost and texture.
- Request mulberry traceability information and blend ratio test reports from suppliers to facilitate storytelling to brand clients.
- During small-batch trials, focus on testing shrinkage, pilling, and color fastness after machine washing.
- Pay attention to the low-temperature dyeing capacity of Shengze factories, as this directly affects lead times and environmental compliance.
For Designers
- Use "silk + cupro" for suits and shirts; the drape is crisp and suitable for commuting and semi-formal occasions.
- Use "silk + recycled polyester" for dresses and wide-leg trousers, emphasizing matte luster and wrinkle resistance.
- Use "silk + wool" for short coats and scarves, highlighting skin-friendly comfort and autumn/winter warmth.
- In terms of color, prioritize low-saturation gray-pink, misty blue, moss green, and warm sand to highlight the soft luster of silk.
For Factories
- Establish a matching database for silk batches and synthetic batches to reduce color differences and shrinkage variations after blending.
- Invest in low-temperature dyeing and bio-polishing equipment to reduce silk strength damage.
- Establish direct procurement or joint traceability mechanisms with Hangzhou mulberry plantations to shorten raw material procurement cycles.
- For export orders, prepare process solutions and test reports for machine washability and low-temperature ironing.
For Exporters
- Promote "machine-washable silk blends" to European buyers, emphasizing care convenience and e-commerce adaptability.
- Prepare English-language traceability documents and environmental certifications to meet brand clients' compliance requirements.
- When quoting, differentiate between "silk content" and "finishing grade" to avoid falling into low-price competition.
- Monitor the collaborative capacity between Shengze and Hangzhou, prioritizing suppliers that offer short lead times and small-batch flexibility.