Key Indicators for Grading Wool Fabrics
Wool fabric grades are determined by yarn count (Nm), fiber fineness, spinning method, and blend ratios. Worsted wool typically ranges from 80 to 150 Nm; higher counts result in finer, softer fabrics but reduce durability. Woolen fabrics use fiber fineness (microns) instead, with 18.5 microns or less classified as superfine. The most visible difference between worsted and woolen is surface luster and texture. Worsted fabrics have a smooth, glossy finish, ideal for suits. Woolen fabrics feature a brushed surface with a warm, soft hand, suitable for coats. To distinguish, hold the fabric to light: worsted is nearly opaque, while woolen shows fiber gaps.
Cashmere vs. wool identification relies on fiber diameter. Cashmere fibers average 14-16 microns, finer than the finest wool (18 microns), offering superior softness. Always request fiber test reports, focusing on "mean diameter" and "coefficient of variation." Pure cashmere is labeled 100% cashmere, but blends (e.g., 10% cashmere + 90% wool) offer cost-effective performance.
Blend ratios affect cost and function. Wool+polyester enhances wrinkle resistance, wool+silk adds luster, and wool+cashmere improves hand feel. Note: Chinese standards allow 100% wool labeling when content ≥95%, so verify actual blends via third-party testing.
Selection by Application
For suits, prioritize worsted wool. Standard business suits use 100-120 Nm worsted, 260-300 g/m weight, offering crispness and crease recovery. High-end custom suits may use 150+ Nm, but beware of shine. Summer suits opt for 80-100 Nm, 200-240 g/m, or blends with linen/silk. Always request samples to test drape and resilience.
For coats, woolen fabrics are preferred. Classic double-face coats use 500-700 g/m woolen, with 30-50% cashmere for warmth and feel. Outdoor coats benefit from wool+nylon blends for abrasion resistance. Note that woolen fabrics pill easily; demand anti-pilling grades of 3 or higher.
For scarves and shawls, choose pure cashmere or high-cashmere blends. Weights of 120-200 g/m suffice; focus on fiber fineness and hand feel. Rub the fabric with your palm: cashmere generates minimal static, while wool produces noticeable static.
Procurement Pitfalls and Solutions
Pitfall 1: Mislabeling yarn count. Some suppliers label woolen fabrics as "80 Nm," which is incorrect. Require clear "worsted" or "woolen" designations and process parameters.
Pitfall 2: False blend ratios. Vague labels like "wool blend" without percentages, or inflated cashmere content, are common. Conduct spot checks via third-party fiber analysis.
Pitfall 3: Substitution. Regular wool may be passed off as Merino, or synthetic fibers as cashmere. A simple burn test: wool smells like burnt hair and crumbles; synthetics smell like plastic and form hard beads.
Pitfall 4: Ignoring finishing processes. Same yarn count fabrics can differ greatly due to treatments like mercerization or anti-wrinkle finishing. Request finishing details.