Types of Knitted Fabrics: Jersey, Rib, Interlock, Fleece, Mesh
Key Parameters to Evaluate
When sourcing knitted fabrics, focus on three core metrics: weight (g/m²), elasticity recovery rate, and shrinkage rate. Weight determines thickness and cost. Jersey typically ranges 140-180g/m² for summer T-shirts, while fleece sits at 240-320g/m² for fall/winter. Elasticity recovery rate indicates how well the fabric bounces back after stretching; rib fabrics can achieve over 90%, while standard jersey only reaches 60-70%. Shrinkage is a common pitfall—national standards require ≤5%, but many low-cost options reach 8-10%. Always request pre- and post-wash data and stipulate “shrinkage ≤5%” in contracts.
Detailed Breakdown of Five Fabrics
Jersey Jersey is a single-knit fabric with a smooth face and looped back. It’s breathable but low in elasticity. Key buying point: yarn count. 32/1 combed cotton jersey suits premium T-shirts; 21/1 is thicker and more durable. Avoid jersey below 140g/m² for dark or tight garments—it becomes see-through. For summer women’s T-shirts, choose 160-180g/m²; for men’s, 180-200g/m². Limit spandex content to ≤5% if the fabric will be printed, or wrinkles may appear near prints.
Rib Rib features alternating knit and purl stitches creating vertical ridges. Common structures: 1×1 rib and 2×2 rib. Elasticity and recovery matter more than weight. For cuffs and collars, select rib at 220-280g/m² with 15-20% spandex and recovery rate ≥95%. Note: rib width (e.g., 1.5cm for collars) must match body fabric thickness to prevent flipping. Request “elastic fatigue test” data (recovery after 50 consecutive stretches).
Interlock Interlock is a double-knit fabric with identical faces, no curling, and a firm hand. Weight ranges 180-280g/m², ideal for polo shirts and dresses. Density is critical—low-density interlock pills easily. High-count interlock (60/2) feels soft but costs more; standard 40/1 offers good value for business casual. Key metric: bursting strength ≥250N to avoid deformation.
Fleece Fleece is usually double-knit with a brushed back for warmth. Weight: 260-340g/m². Differentiate between “brushed fleece” (short, dense nap, less shedding) and “fleece with long nap” (fluffy but prone to pilling). Fleece below 240g/m² lacks insulation. Shrinkage is higher (3-7%), so pre-shrink before cutting. For printed fleece, use combed cotton yarn to prevent lint on prints.
Mesh Mesh has regular holes for extreme breathability. Common types: hexagonal and diamond mesh. Weight: 80-150g/m², used in sportswear linings and summer jackets. Check “hole size”: 1-2mm for T-shirt back panels, 3-5mm for side vents. Elasticity varies: mesh without spandex is low-stretch, suitable for fixed panels; 5-10% spandex mesh works for tight sportswear. Note: mesh tends to unravel during cutting—ask for anti-ravel treatment.
Application Scenarios
T-Shirts Jersey is the top choice, 160-200g/m² with ≤5% spandex for comfort. Use rib (220g/m², 15-20% spandex) for collars to prevent distortion. Avoid pure cotton jersey for dark T-shirts due to poor colorfastness; opt for reactive dye.
Hoodies Fleece at 280-320g/m² with ≥80% cotton for breathability. Add 3-5% spandex for stretch. Rib cuffs should be 30-50g/m² heavier than the body. Mesh inserts under arms improve ventilation.
Sportswear & Casual Mesh (100-140g/m²) pairs with jersey for activewear—mesh in high-sweat zones, jersey for main panels. Polo shirts need interlock at 200-240g/m²; jersey lacks the structure to hold collar shape.
Procurement Pitfalls
1. Don’t rely on weight alone—yarn count matters. 32-count yarn is denser and 30% costlier than 21-count. Cheap fabrics often use coarse yarn to inflate weight.
2. Beware of “100% cotton” claims hiding 5-15% polyester. Burn a thread: cotton smells like paper, polyester like plastic.
3. Rib width mismatch: collars 1.2-1.8cm, cuffs 2.5-4cm. Outside this range leads to deformation.
4. Mesh hole uniformity: measure 10 holes with a caliper; deviation >0.3mm indicates unstable knitting, causing skewed cuts.
5. Shrinkage non-compliance: demand third-party test reports or run your own wash test (40°C, 3 cycles).
Buying Checklist
- Jersey: 32/1 combed cotton, 160-200g/m², shrinkage ≤5%, spandex ≤5%
- Rib: 1×1 or 2×2, 220-280g/m², spandex 15-20%, recovery rate ≥95%
- Interlock: 40/1 or 60/2, 200-240g/m², bursting strength ≥250N, shrinkage ≤4%
- Fleece: combed cotton brushed fleece, 280-320g/m², shrinkage ≤5%, pilling grade ≥3
- Mesh: hexagonal, 100-140g/m², hole deviation ≤0.3mm, 5-10% spandex for elastic needs
- General: request A4 samples, run wash and stretch tests, confirm colorfastness ≥4