The US defense supply chain's 'textile barrier' is tightening further. The House-passed NDAA for fiscal year 2025 includes multiple provisions strengthening the Berry Amendment, which requires 100% US-made textiles for military procurement from combat uniforms to tents.
Legislative Moves and Industry Response
The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) immediately welcomed the NDAA provisions. The council has long advocated strict enforcement of the Berry Amendment as crucial for military equipment quality and supply chain security. The new NDAA not only reaffirms core Berry requirements but adds oversight and penalty clauses.
Under the new provisions, the Department of Defense must require stricter 'Made in USA' certification for textile procurement and report compliance to Congress regularly. This means that past practices of labeling products as US-made based solely on a 'final assembly' step will no longer be accepted.
Industry Impact: Accelerated Supply Chain Restructuring
Strengthening the Berry Amendment is a direct benefit to US domestic textile manufacturers. According to US Commerce Department data, the US textile industry operates at about 75% capacity utilization. Stable military orders will help increase this figure. For countries reliant on US military textile exports, such as China, India, and Pakistan, this policy raises market access barriers.
Notably, while the US military textile market is smaller than the civilian market, it offers stable orders, high unit prices, and stringent technical requirements, making it a 'profit high ground' for many exporters. Losing this market will force companies to pivot to civilian markets or seek new military clients.
From a supply chain perspective, this policy will drive US textile firms to increase technology investment. Military textiles require extreme performance in flame resistance, ballistic protection, and tear resistance. US companies must maintain leadership in high-performance fibers and specialty coatings. This will also stimulate global textile technology competition, particularly in aramid, carbon fiber, and other high-performance materials.